5 Nights on the Kerala Backwaters

Our starting point is Alleppy ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alappuzha ) where we have chosen a small 1 Bedroom houseboat as it will give is access to the smaller canals & villages & less competion with the larger tourist boats.

Leaving Alleppy is like being on a Melbourne freeway at rush hours and reminds of Halong Bay ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Halong_Bay )

We soon leave the rush behind & head into the smaller canals where we pass countless small villages, where most of the people are local rice farmers.

The backwaters of Kerala's biggest lake is a wonderland of birds espcially Indian Shags (cormorants), egrets, brahminy eagles & kingfishers.

A lot of the smaller lakes are being 'dyked' so the land can be reclaimed to create India's vast rice paddies.

Along the way we are introduced to a local alcoholic brew - a "Toddy".  Bit like a fizzy drink but not to our taste, so the Captain & Cook happily polished it off after dinner.  Yes it is in a 1L Water bottle & costs 50Rupees ($A0.75)

The food that isproduced from this very small on-board kitchen is nothing short of 5**** - with freshly caught fish for lunch very day (even if they are only 6" long)

Every single village has it's Christian or Roman Catholic Church - a leftover the the Portugese/Dutch/English period of occupation.

 

Highlight of all the churches is the 1500s Syrian Catholic Church which also includes a Seminary, Nunnery and Hospital for the local town.

 

Transport around the backwaters & canals is by any means

 

(including 'duck herding')

So ends 5 nights on Kerala's backwaters. In hindsight, we would have chosen 3 nights as you can easily fit everything in.  Unless you are in a group, we would solely recommend a smaller houseboat for 2 people.

Our recommedation is Binu Joseph at Kerala Boat House

( http://www.keralaboathouse.com/budget_houseboat_kerala.html )

From Alleppy, it's 4 hours south to Kovalem Beach before flying to Sri Lanka.

Fort Cochin, India - 10.11.2013

Our last day in Fort Cochin - it's been a relaxing time with all the excitement of the many markets and eateries.

Today we are back to Jew Town ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cochin_Jews )for some market shopping & a visit to the Synagogue (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paradesi_Synagogue). It's abso;utely packed with people & photography & video is not permitted.  It does however have an excellent display of hand-painted pictures showing the immigrations of the Jewish traders to Cochin and the trials & tribulation they went through to settle in India.

Right next door is the Dutch Palace ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mattancherry_Palace ) Again photography & video is prohibited, but many of the murals depicted on the walls are highly detailed, but fading with time.  Despite being built by the Dutch most of the interior is based on the lives of the local Kerala rulers.

We spend a bit of time around the market stalls & craft shops, however the value of the $US out weighs the $A.

The afternoon is spent at the Taj Mahal Cooking School with Usha where we learn about the basics of the different Kerala spices & cooking.

Dinner is what we cook and it is marvellous with Dosa, Curried Vegetables and Rice.  Michael's bleary eyes are because of the camera flash not the beer.

Tomorrow we travel to Alleppy for the start of our 5 night houseboat trip throught the backwaters of Kerala.

All up it's been a tremendous new adventure in Fort Cochin, somewhat of a different scene from our past experiences in Central India

Fort Cochin - India - 9.11.13

Our last two days are fairly relaxed.  A trip on the local ferries proved very interesting except we ended up on the wrong island on the return trip - the navy base but nobody really cared about us wandering around.

The harbour trip from Erkulam (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ernakulam ) around the harbour was quiet mudane with the highlight a visit to their new "container shipping wharves"

That night we go to a traditional Kathakali Dance Performance.  It is absolutely superb with the actors applying their makeup on stage to demonstrate the amount of work that goes into the performance.

The performance is spell binding and all the parts are played by males.  The music is drums and other traditional instruments with the only singer providing the vocals.  Hopefully we will produce the video when we get back to Australia.

Fort Cochin - India - 8.11.2013

Today we decide to explore Fort Cochin with the traditional 'tuk tuk' tour...stopping at every shop so the driver can get a commission on anything we buy.

Our first stop is the Santa Cruz Cathederal Basilica built in 1505 by the Portugese (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Santa_Cruz_Basilica).  Still used today for Mass and weddings, it is fairing better than most of the other ancient churches.

Onward to the local markets, where fresh fruit, fish chicken and goat abound all freshly killed. As usual, we have to stop off at some 'local' businesses, but you cannot buy everything and the $A is low against the Indian Rupee making most things expensive.

We stop off at the Jewish Synagogue (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paradesi_Synagogue) but it is closed as is the 'Dutch Palace'' (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mattancherry_Palace)

More fascinating is the old Portugese/Dutch Spice Stores on the harbour, still in use and a wealth of aromas and old world charm.

Dinner that night is "choose your own seafood" from the local fishing net stands....we settle on 10 giant prawns and a searfish (cost $A8).  Then take them to the local outdoor restaurant and they arrived at our table grilled with spices, garlic and ginger....all up about $A20

A long hot tiring day with the humidity a bit on the high side and a blistering sun but tomorrow will bring another day's adventures in Fort Cochin.

Cochin, India - 07.11.2013

To our amazement we are only 2 streets from the local harbour and the famous "Chinese Fishing Nets".

Spending a bit of time just roaming around the foreshore and nearby stalls & shops, Fort Cochin is fast going the way of other historic cities towards catering to the influx of foreign tourist.

We immediately notice that many historical buildings, many of which date back to 1506 (Portugese discovery). 1663 (Dutch conquest) and 1795 (British takeover) are not being maintained or restored.

Fort Cochin has been a Catholic city since it's discovery and there is a multitude of Portugese/Dutch/English churches with a sprinkling of Hindu temples and Muslim mosques.

We visit Saint Francis Church, (www.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/St._Francis_Church,_Kochi) the first Portugese Church established over 500 years ago.  Currently, it is poorly maintained and very simple inside.  It's most outstanding feature is the tomb of the famous explorer - Vasco Da Gama

Dinner at the nearby XL Bar is Marsala Squid with Marsala Grilled Sear Fish, Vegetable Biryani Rice & Kingfisher beer - total cost was $A10.

It's been a long day, with tomorrow destined to be even more exciting as we continue to explore Fort Cochin

Singapore - 06.11.2013

Arrived after a sleepless flight....and straight to T3 cafeteria for dinner then onto the Sapphire Hotel in Geylang (better known as the 'Redlight District)

Straight round to our favourite restaurant/bar only to find "The Golden Eagle" has been replaced by a clothing shop....but ever resourceful we quickly find another bar & settle on a ice cold Tiger Beer before bed.

Up & out for breakfast, our local Indian Cafe (Geylang Bilal Restaurant) is still going strong with Roti Prata Egg & strong coffee laced with sweet condensed milk.

The for our big 'bus'adventure to Jurong Bird Park.......1hr 20mins later & having travelled through almost every suburb in Singapore & costing $A 5.00, we arrive at the Jurong Bird Park.

It is an amazing park, well laid out & offering an insight into almost every species of birds on the earth.  It is certainly well worth the day's visit all for $25 including tram travel within the park.

Back to the Indian Cafe for dinner & some more ice cold Tiger beers (the weather is hot, steamy, and stormy).  Sharon goes for the Curried Goat with Biryani Rice while Michael has the Goat Mutarbuk with Curried Gravy.

Grab our bags from the hotel & out to T@ for the Tiger flight to Cochin in India....we're the only westerners onboard and most of the Indians are amazed at us going to Kerala for holidays from Australia.

We sleep the whole 4hr flight before arriving in Cochin at 0015hrs - 7/11/13.....

Darwin to Singapore - 5/11/2013

Well the drama of packing is finished and it's now a matter of waiting at the airport for the flight. Given the recent storm activities in Darwin around departure time, Jetstar has bought forward the checking and gate closure times...

4 hours later our touchdown is wonderful Singapore

A quick meal at the T3 staff cafeteria before heading our to our Hotel.

Tomorrow promises a visit to the Jurong Bird Sanctuary

http://www.birdpark.com.sg/